Visiting Zagreb's Upper Town

There’s something about Zagreb in autumn that always pulls me back. Maybe it's the way the city softens under the golden light, the mix of history and calm, the feeling that every cobblestone has stored a century of footsteps. This time, I found myself wandering through Gornji Grad, Zagreb’s Upper Town, right at that magical moment between sunset and dusk when the city exhales. I’ve been to Zagreb many times, but Gornji Grad at sunset is always the version I miss most. Not the busy squares or the shopping streets but this quiet, elevated corner where the city moves slower, where you can hear your thoughts, and where every view reminds you why travel doesn’t always have to be loud or packed with plans.

The best way to enter Gornji Grad is to slow down. The streets naturally make you they’re narrow, slightly uneven, lined with facades that have survived wars, politics, love stories, and endless repaintings. I didn’t take the funicular, walking felt like the only way to properly earn the view. I passed faded wooden doors, balconies with iron lacework, and windows reflecting the last streaks of orange sky. There’s a moment when you reach the top and the whole of Zagreb stretches out in front of you. The red rooftops. The Cathedral towers pointing into the pastel sky (though there was construction on the towers when I was there). 

As dusk settled in, the streets became quieter. Street lamps cast warm pools of light onto the pavement. Cafes lit little candles on outdoor tables. I wandered without a map, letting the streets choose me: through St. Mark’s Square with its tiled roof glowing softly, past ivy-covered walls and old lanterns, down forgotten side alleys where every step feels like stepping into another time. Even the graffiti in Gornji Grad feels intentional, like a modern whisper threaded through an old story.  

Thank you all for joining me in another week of "Through My Lens". I am looking forward to your submissions this week. I hope you will have a great start into the new week!  

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